Paddling Into Perfection ; Canadian Fiord Rewards Efforts with Whale Sightings and Other Wonders

Summary


It was just a streak in the distance, not much more distinct than whitecaps on a breezy day. Then there were two, three more streaks, whiter than any wave.

We paddled our kayaks nearer, but we took care not to get closer than 400 meters, the limit set by Canadian authorities for approaching the endangered mammals. Beluga whales, though, know nothing of such zones. Within minutes, they were all around us, surfacing singly, in pairs and in larger groups, diving under our kayaks to exhale great mushrooms of bubbles, nudging the hulls and eyeing us closely from just a few feet beneath the surface of Quebec's Saguenay Fiord.

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Paddling Into Perfection ; Canadian Fiord Rewards Efforts with Whale Sightings and Other Wonders

It was an hour of bliss among 4 1/2 days of spectacular paddling from Ste. Rose-du-Nord to Tadoussac. There, the Saguenay meets and mixes with the cold waters of the St. Lawrence, 130 miles northeast of Quebec City. The whales are just one of its charms.

The other major attraction is the scenery, and there are few places in eastern North America that combine such soaring topography with the opportunity for sustained kayaking. Our group of four paddled 53 miles, but we could have done nearly tw...

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