Dining Out: Sabor Peru ; the Bright, Fresh Tastes of Peru

Summary

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Walk inside Sabor Peru on a Friday night and you'll find yourself at a lively Peruvian house party.

Your host at this colorful little Rutherford storefront is Dave Shimabukuro, who welcomes, serves and teases you like you were family in his home, and seems to love nothing more than explaining to you the ins and outs of the dishes cooked by his father, "Don Mike." Talk to him a little and you'll gradually get an insider's guide to Peruvian food.

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Dining Out: Sabor Peru ; the Bright, Fresh Tastes of Peru

Like the parihuela soup, a bowl brimming with beautiful seafood ($7 for a small): "It is very important that if you ever have a hangover, you must eat parihuela and ceviche," Shimabukuro said. "You will be cured on the spot. I just had one, and I'm sobered up now."

Or the huancaina, an exceptionally thick, glossy ricotta cheese sauce slicked over sliced halves of cold potato ($8): "If you go to another Peruvian resta...

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