Brigadoon West ; Canada's Scenic Maritime Provinces Offer Glimpse of a Rich Colonial Past

Summary


A foggy night on this craggy part of the coastline. So many of them are.

I'm trying not to breathe too much in a smoke-wreathed pub (there are few cigarette-free environments in this manly part of the world) and hoisting a pint of the preferred brew, Keith's, whose motto is "Those who like it, like it a lot." My wife tries the local single- malt scotch. Brave woman: It's a serious drink.

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Brigadoon West ; Canada's Scenic Maritime Provinces Offer Glimpse of a Rich Colonial Past

At the table next to me, a fair-haired young fiddler plays an ancient reel on her battered instrument. Several other violinists jump into the triple-beat fray, along with a guitarist, a bass player, and a percussionist, who thumps away on a large, single- sided drum called the bodhran. They all know the tune as if they were born listening to it.

Where am I, you wonder? Some boggy county in western Ireland? A godforsaken corner of Scotland? You're off by an ocean. This Celtic scene can be found on our side of t...

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